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  1. #1

    Default Matagalpa

    Hi Folks,
    I'd like to pick your brains a bit if that's OK. I'm married to a Nicaraguan lady and have visited Nicaragua 5 or 6 times. She's from Matagalpa so that's where I've spent most of my time there.
    We met in Costa Rica but she's here with me in New Mexico now.
    I'm seriously considering retiring in NIC in 2 to 4 years. I like Matagalpa (the cooler temps) pretty well but would consider other parts of the country as well.
    Do any of you have any opinions or experience living in Matagalpa?
    What about experiences with ladrones? I've walked the streets there quite a bit alone while my wife visited with her family and have felt safe. Never at night but then I wouldn't do that here at home either. My experiences have all been positive so far. Well, except for some of the bus rides.
    I'm a large blonde, blue eyed man so I realize I might be a target.
    We would be buying a house. How about home security. Do the steel bars and razor wire do the trick?
    Any input would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Jay

  2. #2
    TRN Science officer bill_bly_ca's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Quote Originally Posted by jbirdvaughn View Post
    What about experiences with ladrones? I've walked the streets there quite a bit alone while my wife visited with her family and have felt safe. Never at night but then I wouldn't do that here at home either.
    I am 6.1' and 245, blond with coloured eyes as well.. Boisterous talk ends with look and a nod there way .. Just keep your ears open.. Seems quite a few assume you do not understand and crap talk amongst them selves out of your field of view until you acknowledge.

    It is the smart Ladrones and the Crazys that are most worry some..
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  3. #3
    Para aquí para acá Jonh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Also 6'-1" with northern European appearance, never got the stink eye. Lots of curious glances from chicas, but no bad guys. Not that I know of, at least.

    Keep your wallet in your front pocket, don't walk around with anything that can be grabbed, dress to fit in.

    In Esteli, I bought a large pocket knife that I sometimes take out to play with, just to look too crazy to mess with.

  4. #4
    Viejo del Foro Just Plain John Wayne's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    .... Playing Crazy works just about anywhere you go.... Damn good Defence, nobody want a part of a nutjob.
    To be called a "Has Been" I must surmise, is much Greater than to be called a "Nevah Been"... JW...



  5. #5

    Default Re: Matagalpa

    I have made a habit of trying to look a little angry, like I won't take your crap, when I'm walking alone.

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    Dog Whisperer cookshow's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Honestly, there is a much better chance that the ladrones will see you walking around and ignore you, but knowing you have left your house unattended they will rob it. Crime here tends to be of the "cowardly" variety, crimes of opportunity. Occasionally you will hear of muggings, beatings, home invasions of gringos etc, but they still seem to be pretty rare. Every few years the taxi hijackings pop up and it has been a while since I have heard or read of one so it may be about time for that to start up again but that seems to mostly be in MGA. Time to time you hear about robberies on isolated beaches or hiking trails, ask the locals before venturing into unknown territory.

    Having lots of stuff can cause lots of problems. Your maid or workman tells a friend "you should see all the nice things this Gringo has" not meaning any harm, just bragging on "their" Gringo. The friend tells a friend and so forth, eventually someone gets the idea to part gringo and his nice things. Be very careful who you let in your home.

    A little common sense will go a long way.
    ‎"You know what you say when people tell you you can't do something? Fool, shut your mouth up!"
    Ernie K Doe

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    Viejo del Foro el duende grande's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Yep! Walk around all the time like you are 20 minutes late to an ass-kicking contest. You won`t win you any personality contests, but it will scare off some of the low-level creeps. They prefer to rob young chicks, anyway, because they don`t fight back or call the cops. Don`t play with cell phones in public or carry them on your belt, get off the strrets when the normal people get off the streets, and ALWAYS be ready to FIGHT, FLEE, OR FLOW.

    Life here is like being back in the L.A, ghetto--the good black working people are hiding in their houses behind burglar bars just like you.

    Outside of the tourist areas, I don`t think the thieves are particularly looking for foreigners, they like easy marks like chicas or country bumpkins.

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    The Bard of Jinotega MizBrown's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Quote Originally Posted by jbirdvaughn View Post
    Hi Folks,
    I'd like to pick your brains a bit if that's OK. I'm married to a Nicaraguan lady and have visited Nicaragua 5 or 6 times. She's from Matagalpa so that's where I've spent most of my time there.
    We met in Costa Rica but she's here with me in New Mexico now.
    I'm seriously considering retiring in NIC in 2 to 4 years. I like Matagalpa (the cooler temps) pretty well but would consider other parts of the country as well.
    Do any of you have any opinions or experience living in Matagalpa?
    What about experiences with ladrones? I've walked the streets there quite a bit alone while my wife visited with her family and have felt safe. Never at night but then I wouldn't do that here at home either. My experiences have all been positive so far. Well, except for some of the bus rides.
    I'm a large blonde, blue eyed man so I realize I might be a target.
    We would be buying a house. How about home security. Do the steel bars and razor wire do the trick?
    Any input would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Jay

    I recommend Matagalpa because the two other northern cities have had problems with gringos in the last two years (one FBI most wanted, one who murdered a local because he didn't like being dumped for a woman, apparently). It's prosperous enough that people aren't desperate. There are some beggars (we were there yesterday) who are aggressive. Rent for a while first -- better to pay gringo prices as a renter than as a buyer -- unless your wife's family is helping.

    The big problem here is your very own employees and friends of your gringo friends. I live in Jinotega and feel pretty secure now; knew someone who was in Matagalpa renting (very obviously white woman living alone with a dog). I think having a dog helps. A good block makes or breaks things. Also, if kids jump your wall to steal fruit out of your backyard, keep your reaction in proportion.


    Basically, it's where I'd live if I wasn't living in Jinotega. If your wife has family there, that's going to be a real plus unless she's got some problematic cousins.

    I got burglarized here my first year because I didn't realize precisely how problematic some gringa's then boyfriend was, but I'd moved most of the valuables out because I had noticed he seemed to be casing the place and knew he had had a drug problem. I didn't realize how valuable gas tanks were.


    The custom here is prevention and restitution -- not retribution. Also, messing with gringos tends to bring down more than usual heat unless those gringos are also breaking Nicaraguan law fairly flagrantly (one family tried to smuggle a Nicaragua baby back to the US -- so when they have problems, stuff doesn't get done; another woman smokes dope so the cops don't bust her for dope and don't bust anyone for stealing from her).



    A man with a Nicaraguan wife will do better than a single white guy here. Friends of mine are a German (blonde, blue eyed guy) and his Nicaraguan wife with local family.


    I think the hustlers and such are more looking for people who will leave the country before the case goes to trial. If you haven't had serious problems as a visitor, you won't have problems as a resident.


    My quick check on safety is to watch what residents do -- if mothers are sending the kids to the store with money in hand (visible), it's safe. If mothers keep their kids indoors after school and before 8 p.m., it's really not safe. If I see women walking alone after dusk to about 9 p.m., I feel safe enough. Checks appear to be good world-wide where people walk a lot.

    I don't live there, but took Spanish classes there, walked around during the day.

  9. #9
    Viejo del Foro Just Plain John Wayne's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Quote Originally Posted by MizBrown View Post
    My quick check on safety is to watch what residents do -- if mothers are sending the kids to the store with money in hand (visible), it's safe. If mothers keep their kids indoors after school and before 8 p.m., it's really not safe. If I see women walking alone after dusk to about 9 p.m., I feel safe enough. Checks appear to be good world-wide where people walk a lot.
    Excellent indicator there Mz Brown, never thought of it that way but it is spot on.
    To be called a "Has Been" I must surmise, is much Greater than to be called a "Nevah Been"... JW...



  10. #10
    Active TRN Member RGV AG's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    My quick check on safety is to watch what residents do -- if mothers are sending the kids to the store with money in hand (visible), it's safe. If mothers keep their kids indoors after school and before 8 p.m., it's really not safe. If I see women walking alone after dusk to about 9 p.m., I feel safe enough. Checks appear to be good world-wide where people walk a lot.
    Really good way to look at things, had not thought about that. Great advice. I always look for small stores in an area, when there are none in a Latin American neighborhood it means they are getting robbed so they opt out.

  11. #11
    The Bard of Jinotega MizBrown's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Quote Originally Posted by RGV AG View Post
    Really good way to look at things, had not thought about that. Great advice. I always look for small stores in an area, when there are none in a Latin American neighborhood it means they are getting robbed so they opt out.
    They hate the ladrones since they're more likely to be targeted (open during the day, so easier to case). Talk to them and see who the bad guys are. Sometimes, they don't have options for moving away.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Quote Originally Posted by MizBrown View Post
    They hate the ladrones since they're more likely to be targeted (open during the day, so easier to case). Talk to them and see who the bad guys are. Sometimes, they don't have options for moving away.
    And carry a "Perp Sticker" in plain site, but do it consistently.

    They'll find someone else if they think that you are serious about fighting back. Most ladrones are cowardly predators, prey on the weakest . . .

    Pic of Perp Sticker attached. Also useful for butchering pigs if no perps are available.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Para aquí para acá Jonh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    My father in law open carries a S&W .38 in Nicaragua, which is supposedly illegal (no open carry) and has no problem. The wild west fear is virtually never reality.

  14. #14
    just diggin' it Outstanding in the Dirt's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    I'm thinking to share a little here. Last November my wife and I spent 2 weeks in Matagalpa. We drove or walked everywhere we went. There is a small but noticeable quantity of white English speaking people who live there. I noticed that none of them were 'carrying'. The only people who I saw carrying a weapon were police or those in military uniform - and not all of them. I walked around a little (not far) after dark in the downtown area on Avendia del Bancos. Most of people I saw were couples - it was not late, maybe 7 or 8 pm.

    We were cautioned however about going to the mercado on the north end of the city, but went a couple of times to the one on the south end and had no problem whatsoever - everyone was friendly.

    My suggestion is to take it easy don't carry a weapon and don't look like a thug. Probably that way the real thugs won't think they need to affirm their power over you. Keep your eyes open and be quick to make sense of what is going on around you. If the people of the city give you specific reason to visibly carry self defense, then do it. But unless you realize that you may be putting yourself in danger by being in a place, just act naturally and enjoy yourself. Give the people a chance to act like the warm, kindly people they are. Another thing I did while we were there is to rent a Geely car while we were there. Everyone knew how poor I was jajajaja.

    BTW taxi in town is 10 C to go anywhere you like. The taxi drivers we met were honest and without intent to harm, while the taxi drivers in MGA were not honest. A ride from the airport to the city was $40 USD. We were unable to find a driver who would tell us the price before we got into his car.
    Last edited by Outstanding in the Dirt; 02-06-2014 at 07:44 PM.

  15. #15
    just diggin' it Outstanding in the Dirt's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Nicaragua is said to be not only the cheapest country in Central America, but also the safest. My guess is that MGA, Granada and probably a few others are an exception to the safest part. Also it is the Caribbean coast that is often referred to as the DAC (Dangerous Atlantic Coast).

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    Dog Whisperer cookshow's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Quote Originally Posted by Outstanding in the Dirt View Post
    Nicaragua is said to be not only the cheapest country in Central America, but also the safest.
    Cheap and safe are relative. Not so cheap for a person making $100-$150 US a month.
    ‎"You know what you say when people tell you you can't do something? Fool, shut your mouth up!"
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    Para aquí para acá Jonh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    How does one trust statistics in a country with a corrupt government?

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    The Bard of Jinotega MizBrown's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Quote Originally Posted by Outstanding in the Dirt View Post
    Nicaragua is said to be not only the cheapest country in Central America, but also the safest. My guess is that MGA, Granada and probably a few others are an exception to the safest part. Also it is the Caribbean coast that is often referred to as the DAC (Dangerous Atlantic Coast).

    Basically, the people who make that claim are careful to say "reported crimes." A lot of crimes are solved by the victim or the victim's friends punching out the perp. I recommend having a dog and moving valuables out of the house if people are away for any length of time. Everyone who's been sentimental about helping the poor has been robbed. (Help the poor, but don't invite them into your house).

    If anyone wants to wade through a book on how cities work -- Jane Jacob's "The Death and Life of Great American Cities" is excellent. My rules about seeing other women out or children running shopping errands for their mothers come out of doing a paper on that book and walking all the Lower East Side streets she mentioned. Executive summary: cities are safest if they have short blocks and no foot traffic bottlenecks (like a pedestrian bridge with no other exits), if they have mixed use streets with bars and other things where people are out (here, shop keepers who live behind the shop), not too many newcomers, not too many strangers. MGA has safe parts. Crime always goes up in tourist areas since there's generally a perception that they are careless, have money and stuff, and won't come back to prosecute. All this tends to be true. I suspect that crime goes up in gentrifying neighborhoods, but haven't seen studies.

    The one family I know personally who lives in the country has problems with theft by their employees where the denuncias get lost.


    What Jacob observed in Boston, NYC, and Philadelphia pretty much holds anywhere humans have cities. I worked in a black neighborhood in Charlotte, NC, that was low crime -- again, short blocks, stable neighborhood, stores and shops mixed in with the homes.


    Suburban life is probably safe because people drive cars. Rural crime rates are amusingly high per capita because everyone knows everyone well enough to know precisely when they'll be at church or out of town. They look low because the population is lower.

  19. #19
    TRN Science officer bill_bly_ca's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Quote Originally Posted by MizBrown View Post
    If anyone wants to wade through a book on how cities work -- Jane Jacob's "The Death and Life of Great American Cities" is excellent.
    While I did not know it at the time, my college rooming house was just down the block (She was on 69 Albany ave, my rooming house was #36)

    Probably passed her on the street numerous times 85'-87'

    It was only later in life when I realised how much she had to do with " 'Tranna" (Toronto) not ending up like the empty cores of so many other large US and Canadian cities..
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  20. #20
    Viejo del Foro el duende grande's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    The worst taxi drivers in Nic are the ones waiting at the airport and international bus stations. Stay in the station a few minutes while the wolf pack chews up the sheep, then walk past them. Look for a middle aged taxista who is not jumping up and down and go directly to him and ask his price for your destination, ``directo`` if you have luggage and don`t want him to stop for other passengers.

    The last I heard the rate, always negotiable, from the airport to town was $10 bucks per person, less if you walk accross the street and talk to the cabbies by the hotel. rates from the Subasta (on the panam by the airport) to town like near metrocentro by day are about 80 cords for the first person, and 100 to 120 for 2 people. Some of the hotels and hospedages have shuttle services, free or per person.

  21. #21
    Para aquí para acá Jonh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Wait, Miz Brown - you had a parka in Jinotega? And a Nica wanted it?

  22. #22
    The Bard of Jinotega MizBrown's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonh View Post
    Wait, Miz Brown - you had a parka in Jinotega? And a Nica wanted it?
    Rain jacket, with one of those magic linings like Goretex, just not as expensive. I really miss it when I have to walk my dog on rainy cold days. I'm still pissed about that since I'd gotten it on sale at REI in one of the DC suburbs. With a fold down hood. Perfect for here when it's chilly and raining -- and I'm sure whoever has it now is quite pleased.

  23. #23
    Para aquí para acá Jonh's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    LOL, I haven't noticed those in our Costco.

  24. #24
    Active TRN Member vern's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    i was riding a local bus into Diriamba. i was in the back standing up. two guys got on and walked back towards me. one ask if i spoke spanish. i just shook my head no. then the other ask, and all i understood was no pistola? they laughed. by this time we are in the city a block or two. they both turn to me and push me up against the back of the bus and are kinda brushing me down. i am thinking i am about to get robbed. so i yell look and i point towards the front of the bus. as the turn and look i shove them forward and out the back of the bus i went. i hit the ground running and after a block i look back and i see the two guys jumping. after that i just cut back and forth till i was sure that i was not being followed and i went home. kinda funny now.
    my little girl

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    Viejo del Foro el duende grande's Avatar
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    Default Re: Matagalpa

    Thanx for the heads up. It sounds like they were searching you for a pistol to steal or maybe to verify you did not have a pistol so they could rob you. Either way, the fact that they followed you after being seen by you and others on the bus is a bad omen.
    We live in rough times where the people fear and distrust the police as much as the criminals.
    When I was first here I occasionally saw merchants or old gringos with a pistol hanging out of their pocket or a sheath knife on their belt. The merchants were legal on their own property. Now people are maintaining a lower profile for fear.

    "Support mental health or I'll break your head"


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