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Thread: San Sebastian de Yali

  1. #1

    Default San Sebastian de Yali

    The very next day (August 16th) after my walk around through Darali, I decided to explore where the road that I'd walked the day before goes: Yali. I walked down to the the main highway (close to 5 kilometers), and then I took a bus to Yali. A bus to Condega costs C$25, which compared to costs in the lower parts of Nicaragua is high for the distance, but the bus to Yali charged me C$40. I assumed that they were ripping me off, because when I looked at Google Earth, Yali looked about as far away from where I was as Condega.

    The bus to Yali took a long time. The bus bumped and rumbled over the dirt and gravel road and even come to a complete stop for a time. The bus driver got out to go get something to eat. I hadn't eaten much that day, because I woke up with some serious diarrhea. I assumed this was from drinking the orange soda in La Laguna the day before. I figured that I'd get something to eat once I got to Yali.

    When we finally got to Yali, I discovered a town much smaller than I'd anticipated. The bus terminal is in a chocked corner of a market where there is only room for 2 or 3 buses at a time. There is no Pali (the universal mark that a town has "arrived" in Nicaragua). I went to the central park of Yali to use the bathroom shortly after arriving, because I started to feel the stirring of my diarrhea returning. I paid C$5 or C$6 to use the bathroom, and I had one of the smelliest movements of my life. In that moment, I swore off orange soda.

    Once I was cleaned out, I walked around Yali to take photos. It didn't take all that long (maybe an hour), because it's really not that large a town:

    I had some fried chicken (Nic El Pollo) and bought a bag of 12 small picos in Yali as well as a bottle of water. I did this after asking how much a bus from the terminal to La Laguna would cost. I was told C$45. This being even more than the bus that brought me annoyed me, because it means that either one of them (or both) were overcharging me. So, instead of paying C$45 to get back, I decided to buy water and snacks for C$30 and then walk back.

    I assumed that it was about 20 kilometers from Yali to Finca Linda Flor. I'd already walked this distance (to Condega), and I'd walked around that much the day before through Darali, and so I merrily set out from Yali towards the farm taking photos:

    Soy el chele mono.

  2. #2

    Default Re: San Sebastian de Yali

    I'm not a big Yali fan either.
    The town exists to serve the campo around it. Limited money in the campesino pocket, limited attractions in terms of food, etc.

    It also has a cemetery and that attracts people from a wide radius. The Roble Dalito crowd buries their dead here.
    People ARE very serious about their dead in Nicaragua,, the family thing continues to surprise me in small ways.
    Ariana attempts to recreate family here in Tucson,, wants to belong,, even though all we have are Mexicans.

  3. #3

    Default Re: San Sebastian de Yali

    I passed through a bunch of little towns in between Yali and my destination, and I crossed over a river (probably the same river) several times over skinny one lane bridges that look as though they wouldn't survive a large rainstorm. I asked at several of the towns where I was, and I remember being told the following: La Vainilla, El Tule, El Limon, Branadero, and (of course) Darali. I passed through several more, but I didn't ask for the names, and they're not labeled on Google Earth, so I have no idea what they're called.

    I was climbing up an especially steep and long slope when a wind gust nearly knocked me off my feet. I had to shield my eyes from the dust and leaves caught up in it, and a moment later a wall of rain crashed over me. I sheltered under a tree in front of a home. The people in the home took shelter under their porch and looked out at me caught in the storm. Nobody called me over of offered me shelter. The tree did nothing to block the water. Well, I suppose it changed smaller drops into larger drops, but the point is that I was completely soaked in a few moments. I stayed put anyway in the hope that the rain would pass quickly and that the tree would help a little.

    After what must have been 10 minutes, I started walking again. The rain didn't stop, and what finally convinced me to move was the deteriorating state of the dirt/mud road. I wasn't wearing my boots on this hike, and I knew that I couldn't stand up to much rain. The wet forced me to stow my camera for a time, but even after the rain thinned enough for me to take it back out, my battery died. Thus, I don't have any more pictures to share than the ones above.

    I managed to walk all the way back to Finca Linda Flor under my own power--except for the last kilometer, because a kind man on a motorcycle offered me a lift. I walked for 6.5 hours to get from Yali to the farm. This is the longest walk that I've done so far, and it is also likely the stupidest thing that I've done yet. I proved to myself that despite my sense of weariness that I could push myself to walk farther and over more difficult terrain (the ups and downs from Yali were brutal) than I ever have before. That being said, I wore myself out to such an extent, that the friction rash that I earned from such a prolonged walk go infected with a fungus that took me several visits to the clinic in Condega to correctly diagnose and fix.

    I don't recommend that anyone try to walk the road from Yali to Condega or even from Yali to La Laguna. It's a bear. I now know why the buses are able to charge as much as they do--because the people will pay whatever they have to in order to avoid walking that stretch. I calculate that Yali to the farm is about 30 kilometers (using the ruler tool on Google Earth). I walked down 5 kilometers to start my trip, so I add 5. I go a ride at the end, so I subtract 1. I walked around Yali for about an hour, so I add 2. In all, I walked 35 to 36 kilometers that day, and I felt it. I asked Jayro and Javier about it, and they told me that people don't walk to Yali. People shouldn't walk to Yali.
    Soy el chele mono.

  4. #4

    Default Re: San Sebastian de Yali

    This, and those like it, are my favorites. Wow.

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